Monday, 18 July 2016

Alienware Alpha Performance Test - The Witcher 3

Alienware Alpha Model:
i5 | 8 gig RAM | 860m/750ti 2 gig RAM - Overclocked (+135 core clock & +400 memory clock) 

2015's game of the year, The Witcher 3, is a very taxing game to run well. By run well I mean 1080p and 30fps. If you were hoping for 60fps like the alienware alpha website promises then you not only need to be playing at the lowest settings but also a much lower resolution than 1080p. Infact you pretty much need to drop it down to 720p to achieve this. It's a bit of a missleading claim to make to be honest but its not techincally inaccurate.

This game runs at about 1080p and 30fps on the main consoles. I say 'about' because both have their own issues with frame drops and XboxOne is running at 900p rather than 1080p. My basic guide for how a game should perform on this model of the Alpha is slightly better than on PS4. This holds true most of the time but there are always exceptions to this rule.

It's getting more an more common for modern games to look fantastic even on low settings these days and The Witcher 3 is no exception. I use a mixture of settings but a lot of them are set to low with some set a bit higher and the game is still quite beautiful to experience. The games artstyle, lighting and almost constant movement within the game world (trees and plants swaying in the breeze for example) create what often feels like a living breathing world that is a pleasure to explore.

With the settings listed below you can get The Witcher 3 to run at 1080p and over 30fps 99% of the time. You will still get the rare hicup that drops it just below but its only for a split second here and there:

Postprocessing
Motion Blur: On
Blur: Off
Anti-Aliasing: On
Bloom: On
Sharpening: Off
Ambient Occlusion: None
Depth of Field: Off
Chromatic Aberration: Off
Vignetting: On
Light Shafts: On

Graphics
VSync: On
Maximum Frames Per Second: Unlimited (don't use this to lock the framerate, see 'vedict')
Resolution: 1920 x 1080
Display Mode: Borderless Window (Helps when locking to 30fps)
Preserve System Gamma: Off
NVIDIA HairWorks: Off
NVIDIA HairWorks AA: 0
NVIDIA HairWorks Preset: Low
Number of background Characters: Low
Shadow Quality: Low
Terrain Quality: Low
Water Quality: High
Grass Density: Low
Texture Quality: High
Foliage Visibility Range: Medium
Detail Level: Low
Hardware Cursor: Off

Verdict 

The Witcher 3 runs nicely as long as you are willing to accept playing at 30fps with a resolution of 1080p. As long as you lock the framerate using 3rd party software such as RivaTuner and use settings like motion blur then the expience is still nice and smooth. I wouldn't recommend using the ingame frame lock option as the frame timing feels off causing a slightly stuttery feel to the camera movement. You can of course just play with a variable framerate but it jumps around between 30-60 so much it becomes increadibly distracting. Going into a cave where the frame rate will rise making the game run super smooth only for it to plumet back down to 30 as you exit can bring you out of the exerience really fast. So lock it to 30 and you will stop even thinking about the frame rate at all.

Sunday, 17 July 2016

Photographing the Kingfisher

I have enjoyed photography as a hobby for many years now but since my son was born a little over 3 years ago I haven't really had much time to get out with the camera. My father is also a big fan of the hobby and so we arranged a day out together at a nature reserve so we could spend some time together an give me the chance to get a few new pictures for my Flickr stream (My last upload was October 2015).

I have used a pretty humble set up for a long time now as far as DSLR equipment goes. I have just 2 lenses (albeit decent ones) an external flash and a 2 x converter. These lenses are the Tamron 18-50 F2.8 and the Canon 70-200 F4 L. My camera body is pretty aging as well (Canon 500D) but it still gets the job done. I have always believed that even the base line bodies are capable of producing great shots with the right lens attached and a little bit of user skill and creativity.

Despite the poor weather as of late we got rather lucky and summer decided to finally show up. The place we visited was primarily for bird photography which I am hardly equipped for on any sort of high end level but I have taken plenty of bird shots in my time as the opportunity presented itself. My favorite being on a holiday to Hilton Head Island in South Carolina where I was able to witness and photograph Osprey catching their morning meal.

However the big attraction at this particular nature reserve we visited was that it currently had Kingfishers nesting there. Having barely ever seen one, let alone caught one on camera, I was looking forward to seeing what would happen. I had my doubts I would come away with any shots I would be very happy with as even with the 2x converter I would only be hitting 400mm and my widest aperture would be a rather small f8. But as always I was determined to give it ago.

Well we had a great time and managed to witness the Kingfishers Hunting several times throughout the day. At first they would only be landing on perches at the other end of the pond which was far to great a distance to get any high detailed shots but it was great to see them in action anyway. Luckily for me, later on one of them decided to venture a bit closer and that gave me a little hope of producing something I was at least mildly happy with. When I got home and developed the shots I was actually pleasantly surprised that they had turned out better than I could have possibly hoped for and i got my self a nice little series of the Kingfisher hunting near its nest.

The Kingfisher surveys the hunting grounds looking for a potential target.

After selecting the target the Kingfisher dives down at lightning speed.

After each attempt it would shake off all the excess water on its feathers.

The Kingfisher would then take one final look around.

And then it would return to the nest.

While waiting for the Kingfishers to show their faces I was visited by two other interesting creatures. Firstly I saw this Reed Warbler show up near by. Its nice to see how they cling on to the reeds with their feet.


Even more interesting than that was this grass snake the decide to swim across to the other side of the pool. Another great sight for me as I have never seen a grass snake before so getting a picture of it in action was a pretty great moment.






Friday, 15 July 2016

Alienware Alpha Performance Test - Overwatch


Alienware Alpha Model:
i5 | 8 gig RAM | 860m/750ti 2 gig RAM - Overclocked (+135 core clock & +400 memory clock)

The new IP from Blizzard is unsurprisingly popular, as all their games seem to be. They are known for running only a small number of franchises (in fact this is their first new IP in years) but all are made to a very high standard from gameplay to visual artstyle and kept updated for years after release. But also like all Blizzard games it is designed to be able to run on a very wide range of hardware as they want as many people as possible to be able to purchase their games. Luckily for us Alpha 860m owners that means it runs like a dream on this tiny gaming PC.

Overwatch is a competitive team based first person shooter, so ideally you want to be playing at 60fps and 1920 x 1080 resolution. I played around with the settings and to be honest, in a game like this, it looks great no matter what settings you have (as long as you keep the resolution high). So for this reason I set it up to something where it would comfortably sit around 60fps. Here you can tweak to suit your own preference. For me I really don't notice the odd drop into the 50's so I left a few settings higher than needed, But if those minor drops bother you they are easily solved with turning one or two settings down another notch.

So for me I use the following settings to achieve 1080p with 60fps most of the time with the odd minor drop here and there:

Display Mode: Borderless Window
Resolution: 1920 x 1080
Field of View: 100
Vsync: On
Triple Buffering: On
Render Scale: 100
Texture Quality: High
Texture Filtering Quality: Epic - 16x
Local Fog Detail:  Medium
Dynamic Reflections Low
Shadow Detail: Low
Model Detail: High
Effects Detail: Low
Lighting Quality: Medium
Antialias Quality: Low - FXAA
Reflection Quality: Medium
Local Reflections: On
Ambient Occlusion: On



Verdict

Overwatch runs like a dream on the alpha. Its a very scalable game that should give you no problems getting a 1080p 60fps experience all while retaining high quality textures and highly detailed characters. Its a pretty damn good game to boot. Just don't spend any money on there somewhat dubious random loot box system.

Wednesday, 13 July 2016

Alienware Alpha Performance Test - Rise of the Tomb Raider



Alienware Alpha Model:
i5 |  8 gig RAM | 860m/750ti 2 gig RAM - Overclocked (+135 core clock & +400 memory clock)

Rise of the Tomb Raider is a fairly demanding game and a good test of what you can squeeze out of this tiny little gaming PC. I was expecting to match something close to the Xbox One Performance of the game and I think it even runs a little bit better overall.

For a game like this my target is hitting 30fps at 1080p. If you get the odd drop here and there below, I would still class that as acceptable just so long as it’s not to frequent.

After working through one of the more demanding areas in the game I managed to settle on what I feel are the best settings for a solid 1080p 30fps performance.

Recommended settings:
Fullscreen:ON
Exclusive Fullscreen:OFF (this makes it full screen in a borderless window)
Resolution:1920 x 1080
Anti-Aliasing:FXAA
Vsync:Triple Buffered
Texture Quality:Medium
Anisotropic Filter:8x
Shadow Quality:Medium
Sun Soft Shadows:OFF
Ambient Occlusion:OFF
Depth of Field:OFF
Level of Detail:Medium
Tessellation:OFF
Screen Space Reflections:OFF
Specular Reflection Quality:Normal
Dynamic Foliage:Medium
Bloom:ON
Vignette Blur:OFF
Motion Blur:ON
Purehair:ON
Lens Flare:ON
Screen Effects:OFF
Film Grain:OFF

In the Video below there are a few settings that are different. The main one is textures were set to high and I later realised that this was causing the hitching you see at times in the video. Its simply that the 2 gig of Graphics Ram the Alpha comes with is not enough to keep up with high textures. As soon as I changed it to Medium the hitching stopped. A few other settings are different (such as motion blur and exclusive full screen) because the video is to show the game running with an unlocked frame rate. When locking it to 30 it's best to play using borderless windowed mode and have motion blur as it makes the game feel smoother at half refresh rate.


To lock the framerate to 30fps I recommend using RivaTuner in conjunction with MSI Afterburner. This software combo will give you all the tools needed to overclock your gpu, monitor your hardware performance and lock specific games to a certain frame rate and maintain decent frame times. Many ingame options I have used to lock the framerate to 30 often give poor results and make the game feel sluggish and jittery due to poor frame times.

Verdict

Rise of the tomb Raider is a pretty demanding game so it should be expected that you will need to turn a lot of settings to low or even off when using hardware such as what is in the Alpha. Despite this the game still looks very detailed even at lower settings and you will soon get drawn into the game worlds visuals regardless.

1080p is something I personally like to hit because even on lower settings, the crisp look it gives adds a lot more to the overall visual experience than some additional particle effects or slightly higher quality shadows. Lowering the resolution to below the monitors native setting introduces blurring which I find distracting.

A locked 30fps is also a good target to aim for. While you can just leave the framerate unlocked so that you experience those moments that hit close to 60fps (and it does at times), as soon as it drops back down it can be very distracting. I personally find it better to just get used to 30fps so that it never becomes a distraction. This however is very subjective and you will have to judge for yourself what you prefer. People have different tolerance levels for frame rate variance. For me, if the game can stay above 45fps for the majority of the time I will normally be fine with it. But if it is constantly dropping back down to the 30’s then I will lock it to 30 and be done with it.

The Alpha offers a very playable 1080p 30fps experience with this game as long as you are willing to make some visual sacrifices.

Alienware Alpha Performance Test - Street Fighter V



Alienware Alpha Model:

i5 |  8 gig RAM | 860m/750ti 2 gig RAM - Overclocked (+135 core clock & +400 memory clock)

My first performance test for the little Alpha is Street Fighter V. It's a game that really demands one thing above all else. That is a solid 60fps performance during gameplay. Luckily the Alpha is perfectly capable of achieving this at 1080p and medium / low settings. The game still looks great and its artstyle crisp and clean thanks to hitting 1080p. You will get some dips from 60fps but these are all out of combat so don’t really matter. For example, during some of the canned animations for super moves the frame rate might drop a bit.

But the 1080p 60fps mark is hit during gameplay which is pretty much a requirement for this game. It's not just that it’s a very fast game that would feel sluggish at anything less but the game actually goes into slow motion if that 60fps target is not reached due to how it is designed.

The in game settings are as follows:

Resolution:1920 x 1080
Full Screen Mode:On
Resolution Scaling:100
Anti-Aliasing:Medium
Post-Processing:Low
Shadow:Medium
Texture:Medium
Effects:Low






In the video you will notice some hang ups here and there but that is nothing to do with the Alpha. Those were lag related due to a poor connection to my opponent.

Verdict

Street Fighter V plays fantastically on this model of the Alienware Alpha. As always with a lower end PC you have to make some concessions with regards to visual effects but its still looks great while running silky smooth.

Wednesday, 7 October 2015

Prince of Thorns


Prince of Thorns is the first book in the Broken Empire series written by Mark Lawrence. It is set in a world shattered into 100 kingdoms with each ruler hoping to become Emperor of them all. 

The book opens up in a rather unique way. You follow a group of bandits reaping the rewards from their bloody pillage of a small village, all told through the eyes of their leader, Jorg. This character seems completely devoid of morality and thinks nothing of killing others, even his own men.

So there I was waiting for the hero to turn up. Who was going to destroy this monster and champion my support. Then as chapter 2 started, it dawned on me. Jorg, this heartless, hate filled killer, is the protagonist. I have to say, it took me a few chapters to be OK with this. He isn't some badass with a attitude anti-hero of the movies. He is seriously messed up and will do anything to settle the revenge that has filled his heart.

But you learn more of his past, of his mind and of the world he lives in. You still wont agree with his actions but will start to like him in a strange and twisted way. You want to know what he will do next. You want to know what he did in his past. You want to know what drives him.

You are taken on a truly gripping and bloody tale of betrayal and revenge. But it is far from that simple. There are secrets to this world that will be uncovered. Magic, ancient technology and a past that will completely change your outlook on the world Lawrence has moulded.

Lawrence's writing style has a very unique feel to it. His words leave a surreal feeling in their wake, seeping a sense of mystery into the world. At times I was left truly wondering what was happening and then he pulls it all together giving a situation real impact. If Jorg is left lost and confused, you will be right there with him. By the time the book was over I was absolutely ready for more Jorg. 

“The way to break the cycle is to kill every single one of the bastards that fucked you over. Every last one of them. Kill them all. Kill their mother, kill their brothers, kill their children, kill their dog.” 

Monday, 28 September 2015

Pictures To Be Proud Of - Settings



In the first section of this series I want to talk about settings. It's something that is easily overlooked. I have seen a lot of people assume that a better camera means better photo's. I have then seen these same people go and buy an expensive camera and still get the same poor quality photos they were getting before. Well there is a reason for that. A camera is simply a tool. It's not going to do all the work for you. A better camera will help you get better results as long as you understand how it works and when to use the appropriate settings and features.

The automatic mode in most cameras has a lot of flaws. They are designed to assume many things about the scene that it needs to photograph and change settings accordingly. However it can only glean so much from reading the light on its sensor. It wont know what the subject is, if its moving, what you want to focus on, do you want a flash used and so on. It can certainly make assumptions but only you, as the photographer, really know what is needed.

Most cameras will come full of settings. Many of these are actually various ways of processing the picture once it is taken. These are certainly worth looking at but can all be altered yourself later in the final photo. The most important settings are those that are key to the actual process of taking a photo. These are the Flash, Focus point, Shutter speed, Aperture and the ISO. Almost all cameras will allow you to change the flash and focus point settings. Smaller cameras often wont give you access to the shutter speed, aperture and ISO but it is important to know what they are so that you can understand what your camera is doing and what you might be able to change to get a better result.

The Flash

It is rare you will actually want to use the built in flash on any camera. They are there so that in a dark room you can get a picture of your friends. Its going to wash out your skin, give flat lighting and can cause red eye but if all you care about is that your subjects appear in a photo together, it will do. For almost anything else it is more of a hindrance and you are better to turn it off until you actually need to use it. Without the flash in a low light setting, your options will depend on the type of camera you own. With a phone camera or compact, these will be limited and your best bet is to wait for better lighting. With a DSLR you will have more options for low light but it is always better to wait for or create better lighting if possible.

You might also want to use the flash in the daytime. It can be used for a technique called 'fill flash'. An example of when you might want to use this is if you are taking a picture of someone and the ambient light is coming from behind the subject or directly above. When the light is behind this will darken your subject in comparison to the rest of the scene and when the light is directly above it will give you subject strong eye shadows (known as panda eyes). Using a flash in this situation can add light to your subject to even it out with the rest of the scene helping to limit the above problems.

You may also want to look into an external flash if you camera has the compatibility. A decent external flash will allow you to change what direction it fires letting you bounce the light off walls and create your own high quality light.

If left on auto the flash may have fired and ruined this shot


The Focus Point

If left in automatic mode a camera will often decide that the closest object is what needs to be focused on. As with the flash, only you know if this is what is actually needed. Maybe you want something further back in the frame to be the point of focus, or even something in the background.

When it comes to focusing you will want to set the focus point manually. A common trick here is to set the focus point to the centre of the shot, place your subject over this point, do a half press (often accompanied by a beep to indicate focus has been achieved) and then re-frame and complete the press to take the picture. This allows you to quickly focus on your subject and then get the picture framed as desired and take a picture without having to mess around with choosing focus points.

Some phone cameras may work differently to this. For example the Moto G I use allows you to simply move the focus point with your finger to exactly where you want it. Its simple but effective.

The other options available will vary by device but you should take note of what is there and see if there is anything you can take advantage of. Even some of the scene settings might help you get a better result as it limits down the cameras guess work.

Manually selecting the focus point allows you to choose the subject

Shutter Speed

The shutter speed is how quickly the cameras shutter opens, lets light hit the sensor to create the photo and then close again.

The shutter speed is important because if you are shooting a moving subject you need to make sure that the shutter speed is fast to eliminate motion blur. Even on still subjects you need a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate any hand shake that might occur. How fast this needs to be will depend on the focal length you are using and your own ability to keep a steady hand. If you want to eliminate this factor so you can use really slow shutter speeds then you will need to use a tripod.

A fast shutter speed meant the Osprey was captured without any blurring


Aperture

Aperture is essentially the iris of the camera lens. It is the size of the hole that lets light through to the lens. A smaller hole will let less light through while a bigger whole will let more light through.

The aperture has an impact because not only does it effect the amount of light let through to the cameras sensor, it also effects the the depth of field. This is the amount of area that is kept in focus. A large aperture will have a smaller depth of field while a smaller aperture will have a larger depth of field. This can get confusing at first because of a few factors. For starters, the numbers used to set the depth of field work the opposite way to what you might assume. A large aperture is represented by a low number (such as f1.8) while a small aperture is represented by a high number (such as f16). The other thing to get your head round is that as the aperture gets larger, the depth of fields gets smaller. So if you want to take a picture with only your subject in focus (such as a person) then you will want to use a large aperture. If you want to take a picture with everything in focus (such as a landscape shot) then you will want to use a small aperture.

A small aperture can allow you to keep the whole scene in focus

ISO

The ISO is the setting that changes how sensitive the cameras sensor is to light. A low ISO number (such as 100) means you will need more light as it is a low sensitivity. A high ISO number (such as 1600) increases its sensitivity meaning you need less light.

The ISO is best treated as a last resort to get the aperture and shutter speed needed for the shot. Being able to increase its sensitivity to need less light sounds great on paper but it has one rather large drawback. The higher the ISO goes, more grain / noise is introduced. This is a straight up drop in image quality. How high you can go with an acceptable amount of quality loss will vary from camera to camera as well as personal opinion. Some people hate any noise at all while others will find some perfectly acceptable.

A high ISO can allow you to take great shots in low light areas
The Big Three

While the flash and focus point are important to understand, the shutter speed, aperture and ISO are the three core parts to taking a photo. Each one effects the other two in a relationship that is vital to understand if you truly want control over you photography. If you need a faster shutter speed to capture a moving target then you need to increase the light intake using the aperture and/or ISO. Make the aperture smaller and you have to keep in mind if your entire subject will remain in focus with a reduced depth of field. Increase the ISO and you have to be aware of the quality loss to the final image.

Settings Summery

So to summarise the 5 key settings to be aware of.

Focus - Choose a focus point and don't let the camera decide for you.
Flash - Set it to manual and decide yourself when it's needed.
Shutter speed - Is your subject still? is it moving?
Aperture - How much of the shot do you want in focus?
ISO - Do you need more light and can accept the loss in image quality?

Once you truly understand these 5 things and how they can all effect a photograph you will be well on the way to taking better picture.